Hello, We Must Be Going: A Day in Uruguay

Argentine tourist visas expire after 90 days. So before three months was up, we had to leave the country in order to remain in the country. Well covered in online expat discussion boards, we decided that our best option was to take a ferry across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. It was a pleasant day, but it all seemed kind of ridiculous.

We were fortunate to have a spectacularly beautiful weather -- sunny and in the 60s. The ferry takes about an hour each way. The Rio de la Plata is muddy, brown, and not much to see. Going through customs and having our visas stamped took less than 20 minutes. Some people turn right around and return to Buenos Aires without leaving the ferry terminal. We decided to make the most of being in a new country, so we ventured into town for the day.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, Colonia was founded by Portuguese settlers from Brazil in 1680 and was an important port for smuggling British goods across the Rio de la Plata into Spanish colonies during the 17th Century. The Barrio Historico is picturesque, well maintained, and quite interesting.

Because our kids were wild that day, we did not take a historic tour, visit the many museums, or climb the 108 stairs to the top of the old lighthouse (kids must be eight years old to do the climb). 

Our ride for the day

Instead, we rented a golf cart and toured a wider area, including the Mercado Artesanal and Playa Ferrando. You can see these areas without a car or golf cart, but it would be extremely difficult with young children. (Bikes and cars are also available for rent. Taxis are available as well.) 


The golf cart did not have seatbelts, so we had to hold onto the kids to keep them from bouncing out of the cart, which they thought was great fun.

We were glad that we had not bothered to take the stroller since it would have been useless on the cobblestoned streets.

In the end, it cost more than $500 to renew our tourist visas. Here is a breakdown:

• Buquebus ferry tickets: $100 per adult, $77 per child in "turista" class
• coffee and snacks on the ferry: $10
• Thrifty golf-cart rental: $50
• lunch in Barrio Historico: $50
• souvenirs at the Mercardo Artesanal: $25
• duty-free shopping (Tanqueray and m&m's) on the ferry: $26

Call me cynical, but it seems ridiculous that Argentina forces you to leave and spend money elsewhere for a day. In a sense, it reflects the country's willingness, for better and worse, to let economic opportunities go unexploited -- witness the many Argentines who travel simply to purchase duty-free goods (especially liquor, makeup, perfume, and cigarettes). 


You can ignore or choose not to renew your visa, but I have read that there is a fine upon leaving the country and they may give you a hard time or not let you in if you try to return to Argentina.

Bastion de San Miguel

Bastion de San Miguel

Barrio Historico, near the port

Playa Ferrando