First Few Days

Days 1-2 / 162-161 (July 26 & 27)

Arrived without much difficulty, although flying Delta was disappointing for a variety of reasons. Husband could not help but compare it to his fabulous carrier to and from Vietnam earlier this summer -- Cathe Pacific -- which only added greater awareness to our discomfort. Our first day was spent in a two-week rental, a comfortable, mostly clean apartment in Palermo Chico. Our realtor, a multi-lingual Dutch expat, took us to Carrefour, a huge grocery store with all kinds of other stuff, which was distracting when all I wanted to do was find a few familiar foods that boy and girl would eat. I found myself wishing that we had stayed in a hotel and not had to think about groceries.

A mild panic attack kept me awake in the middle of the night. I was kicking myself for not working MUCH harder on learning Spanish and for not having figured out a kindergarten for boy, nanny for girl, or a place to rent for the next five months, and wondering if we are we insane to do this with two young children.

First impressions included that this city is HUGE and that the people encountered thus far have been pleasant and helpful. The warnings about lowered expectations seem accurate, especially regarding cleanliness--from public spaces to expensive rental apartments. Men stare with a hard, unwavering stare--even while pushing a stroller--which reminded me of being in Italy, but without children. Walking the streets here is fascinating--so much to see. There are many statues, large (mostly of men on charging horses) and small (this sweet boy with the fish is on a little boulevard in Palermo Chico.

3/160

An Argentine kind of day: We went to La Rural, the Argentine version of the Ohio State Fair, but with more horses.

Husband

bought boy and girl a furry rabbit foot ring and a chinchilla toe attached to a keyring. I found it disgusting but they were very excited to have a takeaway. They also loved eating choripan (sausage on a crusty bun) and helado (ice cream) while sitting next to enormous tractor displays.

Later that night (around 8, which is way early for Portenos to eat dinner) we had our first Argentine parrilla experience in a neighborhood restaurant, La Dorita. The grilled bife de lomo (beef tenderloin) and vegetables were flavorful, completely delicious, and ridiculously inexpensive. Complementing the traditional meal was vino tinto de la casa, 1,000 ml of Mendoza Malbec poured from a large, brown ceramic penguin (la penguini). Super annoyed that I hadn't brought my camera, I found it so adorable that I actually stole it.

4/159

I stalked a woman I overheard speaking English at the Plaza Allemain playground. A NY attorney who has been in BA for five years with her husband and young son, she introduced me to a stunning Swede with small kids who is married to a British diplomat. We sat in the "expat ghetto" while I grilled them on BA neighborhoods and schools. They were wonderfully helpful and friendly and I was relieved to have met them.

5/158

Today has been a grim and dark. It started raining in the middle of the night and has not stopped. We decided a good indoor activity would be the planetarium. Boy and girl were briefly interested but not for long. The graphics were reminiscent of a corny 1970s cartoon and we couldn't understand the narrator, which was frustrating. When we left the planetarium, it was absolutely pouring and the sidewalks and curbs had mostly disappeared. There was nothing to do but make our way across the vast plaza to the street and try to hail a taxi. Even with raincoats, hats, and an umbrella, we got completely soaked. I had brought raincoats and waterproof shoes, but this was ridiculous. I will definitely be buying tall new rain boots for all of us before the next storm.