Teatro Colón: Not to Be Missed (But We Missed It)

Over a four-month period, Husband and/or I went the world-renowned Teatro Colón eight times. Well, we went to the ticket office or stood outside locked doors eight times. I am sorry to say that we did not make it inside for a performance or to tour the recently renovated facility. It was not for lack of trying.

Shortly after arriving in Buenos Aires, we began plotting our visit to the Teatro Colón. One of the world's top five opera houses for its near-perfect acoustics and stately elegance, the theater was built in 1889 but not opened until 1908 (in large part because the lead architect and the chief financier died and another architect was murdered). The Teatro Colón has more than 2,500 red-velvet seats in La Sala plus a standing-room only area, El Paraiso, for another 500 people.

Discussion about the theatre is popular among tourists and short-term expats because it recently reopened after a major renovation and refurbishment. In 2006, performances ceased for four years so a much needed $100-million dollar investment could occur, inside and out. The initial plan called for 18 months, but that quickly evolved to three years. The theater was then scheduled to reopen in May 2008 but because of delays did not reopen until May 24, 2010, which was just in time to be included in Argentina's bicentennial celebration.

We set our hopes on attending a performance with visiting family in early November. Since our group included sophisticated New Yorkers and audiophiles from Los Angeles and Indianapolis, we decided to splurge on good seats to get the most from the experience.

We visited the Teatro Colón website numerous times and decided that we should go to the ticket office in order to look at the seating chart when buying the tickets. Each trip to the theatre comprised a 60-minute-roundtrip subte ride to Tribunales and standing in line for 20 minutes or more.

Ticket-attempt timeline:

August: told that we could not buy tickets until October, no specific date given
1. Early October: ticket office inexplicably closed
October 18: told that tickets were not available for sale until October 20
October 20: told that the only tickets available were standing-room only
October 21: after consultation with family, returned to buy standing-room only tickets
2. November 4: Performance scheduled for 8 pm! Pre-performance posh nosh: high tea at Alvear Palace. Told by hotel concierge upon leaving for the theater that there was a strike and all performances were cancelled (for the rest of the month and, likely, the year).
November 9: Husband unsuccessfully attempts to get refund for tickets but could not because the purchase was made with my credit card.
November 10: I get ticket refund.

At this point we gave up hoping to see a performance in the Teatro Colón. It was unclear when the strike would end and I just couldn't take the rejection or waste any more valuable time. 

Even though we could not attend a performance, I had hoped that we could at least tour the building to learn more about its history and the splendor of the design, which features European marble, a Parisian stained-glass dome, a Venetian-tiled mosaic floor, and a French Baroque-style auditorium. Vast rehearsal spaces and studios lie underneath the building and the broad Avenida 9 de Julio, as does a costume shop that holds more than 22,000 pairs of shoes.

I was told different things at different times. The last time I was there, I was told that guided tours would be available again "sometime in 2011."  

So we were shut out...denied. Bummer.

Hello, We Must Be Going: A Day in Uruguay

Argentine tourist visas expire after 90 days. So before three months was up, we had to leave the country in order to remain in the country. Well covered in online expat discussion boards, we decided that our best option was to take a ferry across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. It was a pleasant day, but it all seemed kind of ridiculous.

We were fortunate to have a spectacularly beautiful weather -- sunny and in the 60s. The ferry takes about an hour each way. The Rio de la Plata is muddy, brown, and not much to see. Going through customs and having our visas stamped took less than 20 minutes. Some people turn right around and return to Buenos Aires without leaving the ferry terminal. We decided to make the most of being in a new country, so we ventured into town for the day.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, Colonia was founded by Portuguese settlers from Brazil in 1680 and was an important port for smuggling British goods across the Rio de la Plata into Spanish colonies during the 17th Century. The Barrio Historico is picturesque, well maintained, and quite interesting.

Because our kids were wild that day, we did not take a historic tour, visit the many museums, or climb the 108 stairs to the top of the old lighthouse (kids must be eight years old to do the climb). 

Our ride for the day

Instead, we rented a golf cart and toured a wider area, including the Mercado Artesanal and Playa Ferrando. You can see these areas without a car or golf cart, but it would be extremely difficult with young children. (Bikes and cars are also available for rent. Taxis are available as well.) 


The golf cart did not have seatbelts, so we had to hold onto the kids to keep them from bouncing out of the cart, which they thought was great fun.

We were glad that we had not bothered to take the stroller since it would have been useless on the cobblestoned streets.

In the end, it cost more than $500 to renew our tourist visas. Here is a breakdown:

• Buquebus ferry tickets: $100 per adult, $77 per child in "turista" class
• coffee and snacks on the ferry: $10
• Thrifty golf-cart rental: $50
• lunch in Barrio Historico: $50
• souvenirs at the Mercardo Artesanal: $25
• duty-free shopping (Tanqueray and m&m's) on the ferry: $26

Call me cynical, but it seems ridiculous that Argentina forces you to leave and spend money elsewhere for a day. In a sense, it reflects the country's willingness, for better and worse, to let economic opportunities go unexploited -- witness the many Argentines who travel simply to purchase duty-free goods (especially liquor, makeup, perfume, and cigarettes). 


You can ignore or choose not to renew your visa, but I have read that there is a fine upon leaving the country and they may give you a hard time or not let you in if you try to return to Argentina.

Bastion de San Miguel

Bastion de San Miguel

Barrio Historico, near the port

Playa Ferrando