Argentine National Holiday: San Martin Day

August 17 is the anniversary of the death (1850) of Argentina's liberator, Jose de San Martin. Born in 1778 to a Spanish colonial administrator in the Argentine outpost of Yapeyú, Corrientes, San Martín resided only seven years in Argentina before returning with his family to Spain. At the age of 11, he joined the Spanish military where he served with distinction during conflicts in North Africa and Spain and rose to the rank of lieutenant colonel. (At 11 he was in the military?! I hope Boy is able to make his own lunch by the time he is 11.)

I didn't know about the holiday until we were told the Friday before that the kids school would be closed the following Monday. We looked for a San Martin Day parade or something relevant/semi-educational to do with the kids that day, but could find no information except that banks, schools, stores, and most offices were closed.

A couple of days later, Girl and I went to the playground in Barrancas de Belgrano. In the park, I noticed military police, media trucks, and a military band getting into formation. As I was pushing Girl on a swing, the band started playing very patriotic-sounding music (see national anthem lyrics below). We wandered over, dodging the doggy land mines, to be spectators. The ceremony honored San Martin and was centered around a bust of him, draped in the blue and white Argentine flag. There were several passionate speeches and many regal-sounding songs that were heartily sung by the 200 or so people in attendance.

Girl loved the music and the ceremony. I wished I understood more Spanish. I pretended to sing so as not to offend anyone.

Jose de San Martin bust in Barrancas de Belgrano, one of our neighborhood parks.

Girl was fascinated by the soldiers, guns, and bayonets.

Why yes, she does have a small machine gun.

March of the Fatherland

Argentina National Anthem: English Translation

Lyrics: Vicente López y PlanesMusic: José Blas Parera

Mortals! Hear the sacred cry;Freedom! Freedom! Freedom!Hear the noise of broken chains.See noble Equality enthroned.The United Provinces of the SouthHave now displayed their worthy throne.And the free peoples of the world reply;We salute the great people of Argentina!We salute the great people of Argentina!And the free peoples of the world reply;We salute the great people of Argentina!And the free peoples of the world reply;We salute the great people of Argentina!
May the laurels be eternalThat we knew how to win.Let us live crowned with glory,Or swear to die gloriously.May the laurels be eternalThat we knew how to win.Let us live crowned with glory,Or swear to die gloriously.May the laurels be eternalThat we knew how to win.Let us live crowned with glory,Or swear to die gloriously.

One Month Down: What I Love, Hate, Love and Hate, and Miss

Yesterday marked one month into our stay. It has flown by! We have settled into a lovely apartment and almost into a routine since Boy and Girl are in enrolled in a bilingual school and we have regularly scheduled meetings with a Spanish tutor. An au pair now helps with the kids, so Husband and I are going out to dinner and cultural events. We are eager to do, see, and taste more!

Following are lists of my reactions to the city so far. I expect these lists to change and grow by the end of our stay. Look for forthcoming blogs about some of these topics.

What I love about being in Buenos Aires:

1. Every time I step outside it is an adventure.
2. Meeting other expats -- fascinating people with amazing life stories.
3. The Malbec.
4. The beef.
5. The ice cream.
6. Cheap taxis.
7. Fresh pasta.
8. Delivery service for everything, including ice cream.
9. Argentines are generally incredibly kind, pleasant, and helpful.

What I hate:

1. Dog shit everywhere.
2. Bus and car exhaust is nauseating.
3. Having to be on guard all the time -- fearful of being mugged or taken advantage of in taxis, stores, markets, etc.
4. Beggars with children.
5. No car seats or seat belts in taxis.
6. Children's birthday parties -- totally intense and over the top.

What I both love and don't love:

1. Dulce de leche, which is in everything.
2. Not speaking Spanish well -- both freeing and frustrating.
3. The Latin way of doing things slowly and inefficiently.
4. Riding in taxis and city buses -- both thrilling and slightly terrifying.
5. The custom that everyone kisses on the cheek at EVERY greeting, even at first meetings -- charming but a bit much.
6. That no one bothers you if you sit in a cafe for hours.

What I miss from home:

1. Driving, but I do not want to drive here.
2. My espresso machine.
3. Holding The New Yorker in my hands. I don't mind reading the New York Times online, but it's not the same with themagazine.
4. Being able to use my iPhone, especially the map feature, as I wander around the city.
5. Friends, of course (but Skype, Facebook, and email are amazing for keeping up with everyone!).

I need to take more pictures. Here are a few from the last two weeks:

Boy and Girl on their first day of school at the Florence Nightingale School.

Girl enjoying one of the many playgrounds in Palermo.

On a bus touring the city. The bus was equipped with a tape of ten languages and headphones to listen to the tour(when you could hear the narrative over the tango music). Girl listened to the tour in Arabic.

Who knew???

The Three Graces in Plaza Belgrano.